Posts Tagged ‘Food Storage’

The Proper Care and Feeding of Stored Wheat

October 27th, 2009

wheatWheat. The cornerstone of life. The centerpiece of any long term food storage solution and something that should be included in everyone’s plans. But do you know how to take care of it, to properly store it, to keep it safe and ready to be consumed?

I’ll assume that you’ve read some of the earlier fundamental articles I’ve written regarding food storage, storing principles, and guidelines and understand some of the basic terminology. If not, check out the Articles list at the top of the page and read up a bit!

You mean to say there’s different kinds of wheat?

Yes. There’s several different kinds of wheat. The most common types are red and white wheat which are broken down into sub varieties: hard red spring, hard red winter, hard white winter, soft white spring, and soft white winter. Sounds a bit overwhelming. This is what you need to know about the main varieties (Yes, there’s more…):

Hard Red Wheat: Strong gluten content, which makes it great for bread or to extend meat. It’s the most commonly available wheat variety. The kernels are hard, small, and red! This is going to generally be the backbone of your storage.

Hard White Wheat: Similar to hard red, but more delicate and can be used for things like fluffy breads, rolls, and other similar baked goods.

Soft White Wheat: These kernels are larger and fatter, softer than red wheat with weaker gluten. This is what you’d use for pie crusts, pastries, cereal, etc. You wouldn’t use this for bread.

How much of each should I store?

Well, if you recall from my long term food storage planning article you need about 25 pounds of grain per person per month. I’d suggest that about fifteen pounds of that is wheat with the rest as corn, oats, and the like. You will probably want to store a mix of wheat varieties with the lions share of it being hard red wheat.

What should I store it in?

combine-zaskemWell, my absolute favorite way to store wheat is in sealed plastic bags with about ten or fifteen pounds of wheat per bag. Then get four gallon square buckets and drop the bags into the bucket. You can probably get two or three bags into the bucket depending on how well you pack the bags.

Before you treat the bags you should treat the wheat against spoilage and insect infestation. There are a variety of ways to do that which I’ll go into momentarily. Once treated and closed up, seal the bags into your bucket and store the buckets in a cool dry location.

Rudy’s Tip: Use clear poly-ethylene bags for this. It lets you inspect the contents without opening it up and you can readily detect insect infestation, mold, etc without worrying about cross contamination. One of the reasons for the bags is to reduce the potential of cross contamination by compartmentalizing your wheat. It would suck to lose a months worth of wheat due to contamination!

As with most food items you lose nutritional value if you subject the wheat to too much heat for too long. Try to keep storage temperatures under 60 degrees if possible and don’t expose the buckets to direct sunlight.

How do I prepare wheat for storage?

wheat-bencummingIf you bought dirty wheat, which is generally what you get if you buy directly from a farm, you need to clean it.

Steps for cleaning wheat:

  • First, fan the wheat.
    1. Set up a household fan blowing horizontally across the mouth of a large cardboard box or a bucket.
    2. Drop the wheat slowly through the airstream into the container.
    3. Most contaminants are light enough that they will blow away and won’t drop into the bucket.
    4. Repeat this a few times until you’re satisfied.
  • Second, hand-sift through the wheat to remove any large and obvious contaminants
  • Third, sieve or screen the wheat. You can get custom made wheat sieves that have holes the right size. If you plan to buy dirty wheat, I recommend you invest in a couple.

Once you have clean wheat, or if you bought wheat that was already cleaned, you want to pour it into your clear poly bags (8″ x 4″ x 21″ is a good size) and treat against insects.

How do I protect wheat from insects?

weevil (176x320)There are a number of different ways.

The Deep Freeze

Drop your bags into the deep freeze for several days. Leave the frozen wheat in a warm room for a while until thawed and there is no visible condensation. Wait a few days, and repeat. Do this three or four times. You must repeat this because insect eggs don’t die when frozen so you have to let them hatch and then kill them that way.

Vacuum Sealing

Use vacuum sealing bags instead of polyethylene bags. Seal your wheat according to the instructions of your sealer. Drop the sealed bags into the bucket and seal it up!

Dry Ice

dryiceInstead of using bags, pour three or four inches of wheat into the bottom of your bucket directly. Add a couple ounces of crushed dry ice and finish filling the bucket with wheat. Put the lid on LOOSELY. After about half an hour or so the dry ice will have sublimated and forced all of the oxygen out of the bucket. Seal up the bucket.

If you recall, the freezing doesn’t affect eggs, but the insects need oxygen to breathe and since there’s none in the bucket they die right when they hatch. No problem!

Oxygen Absorbers

oxygenabsorberDrop a small oxygen absorbing pouch into each plastic bag, squeeze out as much air as possible, and seal up the bag. Put the bag in another bag and seal up the second bag. Drop into the bucket and enjoy.

Rudy’s Note: Dry ice and oxygen absorbers depend on the absence of oxygen to kill larval insects. Buckets and poly ethylene bags allow oxygen to flow through very slowly.

I’m not worried about that myself because I figure that by the time oxygen flows through the eggs are all hatched and dead.  If you’re worried about it, use mylar bags or bucket liners.

Vacuum sealing also kills insects by suffocating them but the bags don’t leech oxygen so you’re good there.

Diatomaceous Earth

deDiatomaceous earth is the remains of a fossilized algae called diatoms. Sounds nice, eh? It works because it basically dehydrates the exoskeleton of insects, killing them. Nice stuff, eh? This is something that is certainly considered a natural method of killing bugs, but it is also a serious inhalation hazard. If you choose to use DE, be careful and use a mask.

I don’t know exactly how much DE you would use since I don’t use it. I’ve been told that a cup to a cup and a half per five gallon bucket, mixed through the grain, works well. I’ve also heard that as little as a tablespoon would work.

How long does this stuff store for?

Thirty years or so, give or take. I’d keep several years worth on hand and rotate through it continuously. You really should adopt the ‘food storage pantry’ approach and shop from your storage for your regular meals. The advantages of that approach are too numerous to talk about here but most of them should be pretty clear.

Wrapping it up

I’ll write soon about how to use your stored wheat. But above all, don’t forget to start using it right away. It’s important that your body is used to eating it on a regular basis to avoid potential health problems.

Post to Twitter Post to Delicious Post to Digg Post to Facebook Post to StumbleUpon

Food Storage: Putting Together your Family Food Storage Plan

September 30th, 2009

school desk (320x213)I promised an announcement today, here it is!

Some of you have been asking me to show you how to put together a long term storage plan in more detail. After thinking about it a bit and discussing it with my wife, we’ve realized that this is a huge undertaking and one that needs to be thought through.  Advising folks on how to do this isn’t always easy!

After much consideration, I’ve decided to start a weekly food storage school. Once you sign up for it I will send you an email every Monday with a food storage goal for the next week. I may occasionally send you some other hints, tips, or recommendations throughout the week, but the lessons will come out on Monday. You can join at any time and I’ll start you with week one and we’ll go from there.

My approach will be a bit different than some. I won’t be going whole hog all at once, trying to put a year’s worth of everything away all at once. Instead, we’ll take it slowly, putting together the basics and then begin to turn that into a longer term plan.

Look for a post in the next day or two telling you how to sign up for the class.  Don’t miss it!  Tell all your friends and neighbors!  Invite the family dog!

Post to Twitter Post to Delicious Post to Digg Post to Facebook Post to StumbleUpon

Food Storage: Long Term Storage of Sugar, Honey, and Syrups

September 21st, 2009

Delicious Sugar!Despite the horrible things that you hear nowadays about sugar and carbohydrates and whatnot, they’re actually a critical part of your diet.  And they provide a great energy dense source of calories.  And besides, how do you make cookies from your food storage if you don’t have any sweetener?

There are three major classifications of sweeteners we should consider for long term storage.  Right now I’m only considering natural sweeteners.  I don’t know that much about the shelf life of artificial sweeteners since I don’t actually use them.  In any case, the three categories to consider are Sugars, Honey, and Syrups.

Sugars and Long Term Food Storage

There are several types of sugar that are suitable for long term storage.  Sugar is particularly sensitive to moisture so it is critical to keep it dry.  Aside from that it’s important to store it with the usual guidelines:  Cool, Dark, and Dry.  Sugar has an indefinite shelf life, though some folks say to use it within two years.  Microbes can’t grow in it and it doesn’t mold or anything.  Good stuff!

Rudy’s Tip: Sugar can actually absorb flavors and smells from the air around it.  Be sure to store it in an airtight container!  You’d hate to have Motor Oil flavored sugar.

Granulated Sugar

This is what you see all over the place at the store and is the cornerstone of your storage plan.  It won’t spoil and if you store it dry and cool it will store forever and a day.  If you happen to get it wet it will cake up and get all hard and crusty.  Never fear, Rudy is here!  Just smash it up again and voila, you’re in good shape!

Powdered Sugar

This is good stuff and a cornerstone for icing, frosting, and the like.  It’s actually the exact same stuff as granulated sugar which has been ground even finer.  Sometimes the refinery adds corn starch to prevent caking.  The biggest problem with powdered sugar is that it absorbs water like a frat boy guzzles tequila on spring break.  If you let moisture in, it will cake up and you won’t be able to get it back to then fine powdery condition you’re used to.  Life goes on.  Since you now know it’s the same stuff as granulated sugar, just use it for that instead!

Brown Sugar

I gotta say, this is one of my favorite kinds of sugar.  It’s basically granulated sugar with molasses and a bit of caramel coloring.  It comes in Dark and Light variants.  Dark has more molasses and thus a darker color and a stronger flavor.  Brown sugar is different from other sugars in that it is supposed to be moist.    That means you can’t dry it out.  Best bet is to store it the same as other sugar but leave out the  desiccant.

Rudy’s Tip: Just store dark brown sugar.  If you need light brown, mix one part granulated sugar to three parts dark brown sugar, mix well, and enjoy!

Honey and Long Term Storage

I love honey.  I think it’s one of the ultimate long term storage sweeteners.  It’s natural, you can easily produce it yourself, it’s healthy, and it keeps forever.  And it tastes so darn good.  The only problem is figuring out what to buy.  My preference is to buy local honey if I can’t produce it myself.  If you can’t find local honey, look at the store but be careful.  You MUST buy honey that is labeled pure.  You want to get filtered honey if possible over liquid honey as the process to liquefy the honey after initial filtering destroys most of the nutrients.

Honey stores forever, just keep it dry and away from air.  Over time honey can darken which can intensify the flavor but is otherwise nothing to be concerned about.  Store it with your other food and you should be fine.

Rudy’s Tip: Honey can crystallize relatively easily.  If it happens, drop the container into hot water for a while and it will liquefy.  It’s nothing to worry about!

Syrup and Long Term Storage

There’s a bunch of different kinds of syrup, but there are only a couple that are interesting for me.

Molasses

This is good stuff.  Tastes good to me, though my wife doesn’t like it all that much!  It’s a byproduct of the sugar refining process.  It will store for about two years on the shelf.  Make sure it doesn’t have any corn syrup in it as corn syrup has a far shorter shelf life.

Rudy’s Tip: In a pinch, add a tablespoon or so of molasses to a cup of sugar and make your own brown sugar!

Maple Syrup

Yummy pancakes!  If you like syrup on your pancakes and whatnot, then store this too.  Preferably glass bottles for maximum storage life.  Similar to molasses, it will store for two years or so when stored on a cool dark shelf.  Again, make sure that there is no corn syrup on the ingredient list if you’re buying pancake syrup vs pure maple syrup (which is ridiculously expensive).

In Closing

I hope this helps.  Like I said at the beginning of this post, we can’t forget about sugar in our long term storage planning! As always, let me know if you have any questions about any of this.

Post to Twitter Post to Delicious Post to Digg Post to Facebook Post to StumbleUpon

Food Storage: Storage Options for Long Term Storage of Dry Food

September 16th, 2009

Buckets of FoodWhen storing dry goods for long term there are some common requirements regardless of what you’re storing.  First, things should be stored cool.  Below 75 degrees is best, cooler if possible.  Second, food should be stored in the dark.  For some foods it won’t matter, but many vitamins and whatnot are sensitive to light and will degrade rapidly if exposed.  Third, food should be stored in an oxygen free environment.  Oxygen can oxidize containers and allows bugs to grow.  Finally, food should be stored in a moisture free environment to prevent rotting, mold, etc.

There are a number of different methods for storing dry food that (more or less) meet these requirements, or at least most of them.

Canning Jars

You can use a vacuum attachment for a food saver, etc to vacuum seal regular mason canning jars.  Say we want to store a bunch of Mentos.  Pour a bunch of Mentos into the jar, drop in a couple desiccant packages and an oxygen absorber packet or two, seal it up using the directions of the food saver.  You’re good to go.  Two major drawbacks to canning jars are the fact that they don’t protect the contents from light and they break easily.

Rudy’s Tip: Desiccant is a substance that absorbs moisture.  You’ve seen them in things like shoe boxes, etc from time to time.  Don’t reuse those for food though, buy new ones!

#10 Metal Cans

These are metal cans that look somewhat like older coffee cans.  They store great and handle damage well. They are one of the best choices for long term storage.  The problem is that they’re expensive and the equipment to seal them up costs even more.  About a grand, give or take a hundred bucks or two.  Too pricy for my blood.  If you really want to use these, you can often rent the sealing equipment from your local LDS family cannery.  Similar to vacuum packing canning jars, you want to use desiccant and oxygen absorbing packets when sealing the can.  Many of the off the shelf ‘food storage’ products come in #10 cans.

Food Grade Buckets

Buckets can be a good starting point.  They’re pretty robust, they stack well, and they are opaque.  They are oxygen permeable however, so that can limit the length of time one can safely store food in a bucket.  You can get around this by adding a non permeable liner or using a dry ice pack.  I’ll write a post about using dry ice later on.

Rudy’s Tip: You can get SQUARE buckets!  They are vastly more space effective than the round ones, and are arguably more stable when you start building bucket towers.

Mylar Bags

Mylar is a ’space age material’ which means it’s the best thing since sliced bread, right?  Well, it truly is a fantastic material.  It’s water and airtight, impermeable to light and insects.  To use a bag, you fill it with the dry food, add an oxygen absorber packet or two, and seal it with heat.  You can use a sealer designed for sealing mylar bags or if you are desperate you can use an iron.  Practice sealing bags empty until you have a handle on it, then move onto the real thing.

Rudy’s Tip: Since these things are so fragile store them in a rigid container of some sort.  Like the food grade buckets above.

Where Can I Find These Things?

Think local restaurant storage stores for buckets and jars.  You can often find them used for free or minimal charge if you ask around at restaurants and the like.  Jars can often also be found in second hand stores like Goodwill.  Mylar bags can be bought on the internet and you may be able to find local sources at well.  I don’t buy empty #10 cans so I can’t really help there!

Rudy’s Tip: Small Mylar bags can be hard to find.  In a pinch, you can buy big bags and ’subdivide’ them easily to get smaller bags.  That can be useful for storing things like spices, dried herbs, and that sort of thing.

Final Thoughts

There are other options for food storage but these are the mainstream choices.  Please feel free to ask any questions you might have and I’ll do my best to answer quickly!

Post to Twitter Post to Delicious Post to Digg Post to Facebook Post to StumbleUpon

Food Storage: Long Term Storage of Dried Milk

September 14th, 2009

English Dried Milk from World War IIThe cornerstone to any long term storage of dairy products is dried milk.  It keeps well when properly stored.  It tastes reasonably similar to fresh milk when reconstituted, and tastes even better if you add a touch of flavoring such as vanilla extract or powdered milk flavoring (my kids love strawberry!) at the same time as you add water.

What kinds of dried milk are there?

There are three main types of dried milk available to the general public.  They have different characteristics and vary widely as to suitability for long term storage

Dry Buttermilk
It is what it says it is … buttermilk that has been dried out.  It’s a reasonable replacement in recipes calling for buttermilk.  The problem is that it has a high fat content.  Fat goes rancid easily, and so does this milk.  It’s not a good candidate for long term storage and I don’t recommend storing any of it.

Dry Whole Milk
Similar to buttermilk, dried whole milk is heavy on the fat and is thus not suitable for long term food storage.  Thankfully it’s pretty rare so the temptation probably won’t be there.

Non Fat Dry Milk
This is what you usually find on the shelves at your local store.  It’s non fat so it keeps well, and is what I recommend to you for long term storage.

Rudy’s Tip: You can find dried milk in things such as hot chocolate packets, etc.  Be sure to look at the ingredients list to make sure those use non fat milk before you store them.  Incidentally, storage of hot chocolate packets is HIGHLY recommended.  Yum!

Non Fat Dried Milk it is…

When you go buy this stuff, make sure you buy it fortified with vitamins A and D.  This is usually the case, but you want the extra vitamin content since those vitamins are not found in non fat milk.  You want to buy the Instant kind instead of Regular, because it reconstituted easily and is easier to find.  It takes up a bit more room than regular, but the ease of use is well worth it.  Ideally you want ‘Extra Grade’ which is a higher quality product.  So to sum up, you’re looking for Extra Grade Instant Non Fat Dried Milk Fortified with Vitamins A and D. How’s that for a mouthful?

Do I need to repackage this?

Yes.  The packaging this comes in off the store shelf is poorly suitable for long term storage.  In fact, you’re pretty much shot at about three months.  You want to repackage it into containers that will keep the milk moisture and oxygen free and away from light.  The best way to store it is in mylar bags or #10 metal cans.   My personal preference is to repackage it into mylar bags with an oxygen absorbing packet dropped in.  Sealed mylar bags are then dropped into five gallon buckets (don’t have to be food grade, but should be new) and covered up with a tight fitting lid.  You can also store it in large canning jars with the packet, but you MUST make sure to keep it dark.

So now that it’s repackaged, how do I store it?

Store it in the dark as cool as possible.  Heat is the main factor in how long it will store.  If you store it at 70 degrees it should keep for about four years.  As is often the case, our mantra here is ‘Store it dark, store it cool, store it dry’ for best results.

Rudy’s Tip: Once you open a package, you should use it within three months.  Be sure to continue to keep it cool and dark.  Make sure you keep this in mind when you repackage your milk.

How do I use it?

Ideally you’d write the manufacturers instructions on the outside of your bag or cut it out and drop it in the bucket with the product.  Barring that, figure about 1/3 cup of powder to 1 cup of water for a single serving.  You can aerate it like you would water to add oxygen and improve the flavor a bit.  Make sure to mix it a few hours before you want to use it so it has a chance to dissolve completely.  You can also use this milk to make yogurt, cheese, and the like.

Post to Twitter Post to Delicious Post to Digg Post to Facebook Post to StumbleUpon